INFO: Electrical

ELECTRICAL

• Split-charge and domestic wiring
• Alternators
• Flasher Units
• Ignition Leads
• Heater Resistor Packs
• Electronic Ignition Module
• Headlights - difference between LHD and RHD

SPLIT - CHARGE AND DOMESTIC (FRIDGE ETC) WIRING

1. In order to charge effectively a battery requires both volts AND amps.
2. The voltage must be in the region of 14-14.5 for maximum charge current to be accepted.
3. Above 14.5 volts excessive gassing will occur. This may be acceptable if you check your electrolyte levels regularly but not for sealed batteries
4. Voltage Drop (the amount of volts "lost" between source and destination) is directly proportional to 3 factors
   1. Cable run length
   2. Cable diameter
   3. Current (AMPs) being drawn
5. The standard "Split charge" relays that you can buy for caravans etc are barely adequate as they tend to be installed with too long cable runs and with insufficient cable cross section to prevent considerable voltage drop. The voltage drop prevents the auxiliary battery from drawing much current and the battery will not be recharged quickly.
6. There are electro-mechanical devices which when installed with sufficient grade wiring (eg 16mm² cross section) can ensure the auxiliary battery is charged at the appropriate voltage and amps, but these cost several hundreds of pounds.
7. It is better to supply charge current to the Auxiliary battery and fridge independently , ie through separate relays direct from the power source (either main battery or alternator) rather than drawing the fridge power from the Auxiliary battery (as some manufacturers do).
8. If you wire the relay trigger wire to the same terminal on the alternator as used by the ignition lamp this will switch on the relays only when the engine is running.

Standard Split-charge and fridge wiring improvement:

Here is a basic wiring from an 1991 talisman using standard 12v "split charge" and 30Amp relays. The cable runs were very long, and the wiring standard 30Amp type as can be purchased in motorists shops. The original performance was very poor, necessitating the use of a hookup every 2-3 days even though we have very little power consumption. The modified circuit performance was much improved. HOWEVER it was all replaced with huge wiring and relays later which increased the performance to a fantastic level and we no longer require hook ups at all when touring.

2010 Upgrade:

As can be seen below this alternator's output is already deliberately regulated to a high voltage to get a much higher charge current into the battery and should be very capable of rapidly charging a heavily discharge leisure battery provided adequate cabling is installed to minimise the voltage drop at high currents.  To ensure this I have removed the original 25amp fused split-charge wiring and installed 16sq mm (120Amp) cable, a 100A heavy duty relay, and two 80Amp fuses with the total cable length of less than 70cm from alternator to leisure battery.

Results:

a) With both batteries charged the volt readings are: 
Primary: 14.58v ,  Leisure battery: 14.57v   This is impressive but to be expected with both batteries charged as voltage-drop through cables is directly proportional to current flow (which is  minimal in this scenario). 

b) With the 85Ah battery significantly discharged (having drawn off 30Ah) the initial charge voltages are:
Primary: 14.58v ,  Leisure battery: 14.43v   (and rising steadily as the battery charges). Now this is impressive as original factory-fitted split-charge relay with its long and much thinner cabling could only reach 13.8v at the leisure battery under these conditions which resulted in slow leisure battery recharging despite the high alternator output.

2011 Upgrade:

The switching was handled by a Smartcom VSR (voltage sensing relay) that connects at 13.5v and disconnects at 12.8v. This is the orange unit shown on the left of the photo opposite.

The VSR prevents a discharged Auxillary battery from preventing the main battery from starting the engine and removes the excessive load on the Alternator's low-tension circuit (which has been suggested might cause the LT circuit diodes to fail prematurely (dim glow on dashboard warning light despite normal charge).

Right: SmartCom VSR mounted above main battery.
Far Right: Aux battery showing 200Amp Wiring, 100Amp Relay (upper left) and 80Amp Maxi fuse connected to battery (the other one is a short distance away where the wiring connects to the Starter Solenoid feed from the Alternator)

 OPTIMISED SPLIT-CHARGE SYSTEM 2011

Objective:

• Keep cable runs as short as possible. In my case connect the Auxiliary charge cable to the back of the starter motor when the massive cable from the Alternator is connected).

• Use VERY heavy duty cables (e.g. 16mm square ) and large connectors to minimise volt drop at high current rates.

• Maintain charge voltage at 14.3+ voltage even under high current loads.

• Use very heavy duty cables capable of carrying high currents.

• Use only low resistance zero-volt-drop components in the charge circuit.

• Use a switching Relay to Switch the domestic load (e.g. fridge, phone chargers etc)  from the Auxiliary power circuit to the main vehicle battery when the auxiliary battery is being charged. This ensures ALL charge power goes to the battery and none is passed from its terminals to the interior appliances.

• Isolating the Auxiliary battery bank from the starter battery until the engine is running and disconnecting it when the draw on the main battery pulls the voltage down low (e.g. ticking over with the lights on and the fridge drawing power).  This is done by using a Voltage-Sensing Relay that switches on (makes contact) at 13+ volts, and disengages at 12.8v ....update: VSR burned out after a couple of weeks due to "cycling" on/off rapidly at tickover with high load. The PAS electric pump and Main charge relays are now wired directly to the ignition (not the alt warning lamp to prevent overloading the warning lamp diode pack in that).

• Heavy duty (80Amp) fuses mounted at both ends of the charge circuit.

• 100+ Heavy Duty Relays used.

• Heavy duty (at least 200Amp) cables used

• Mounted securely to ensure cables cannot chaff on other items when driving.

• Protected against water ingress due to forward movement and/or splashes.

ALTERNATOR CROSS-REFERENCE CHART

Regulators:
For Paris Rhone / Valeo etc Typically Part No5791.67 (as shown opposite) but check before purchase as some alternators are different.

Link to UK Supplier (there may be others)  Here
 

STANDARD FITMENT (2 Litre Petrol, ALL Models and Years)

FRA114 is a Quinton Hazell part No (see cross-reference chart above)

Alternator Commissioning Report:

FRA 114 (QH part no) 50Amp unit fitted to Petrol Versions:

Notes:

> High Voltage Regulator setting of 14.58 Volts (good for fast charging).
> Power output measured at 61 Amps even though the unit is officially sold as 50Amp.
> The performance curve relates to Alternator RPM which is approx twice engine RPM.

ALTERNATOR UPGRADE OPTION  to 70/75 Amp Unit (2 Litre Petrol, ALL Models and Years)

FIAT DUCATO 10 1.9 DIESEL 1994-98
FIAT DUCATO 10 1.9 DIESEL TURBO 1994-98
FIAT DUCATO 14 1.9 DIESEL TURBO 1994-98

Additional Parts Required:

• The Pulley from your original alternator.
• 140-150mm long bolt with Nyloc nut for the upper pivot
• 20mm Spacer. This fits between the front upper mounting lug of the alternator and the engine bracket to ensure the pulleys line up correctly.
• Couple of Thick washers for the tensioner at the bottom.
• Electrical Connectors: one large-hole wire connector for the starter cable and one small hole for thehe low-tension cable

Tools Required:

• Allen key: 8mm or  5/6AF to hold shaft on new alt.
• A vice
• 15/16AF or 24mm spanner / Socket on new alt. nut
• 7/8AF spanner on Old alt. nut. ( pulley held gently in vice )
• 2 x 17mm spanners
• 2 x 13mm spanners
• 8mm spanner/socket for the LT connector on the Alternator.

DELCO REMY EXC DRA3646
HELLA REF CA1258
LUCAS ELSTOCK LRB00292
LUCAS EXC LRB292
WOODS ALT12013
FIAT 46430110
FIAT 46434930
IVECO 1305709080
IVECO 1315060080
MAGNETIC MARELLI 63321205
MAGNETIC MARELLI 63321276
MAGNETIC MARELLI 63321361
MAGNETIC MARELLI 63321617
MAGNETIC MARELLI 943321617
QH REF FRA943
QX REF QA3187
RML PART No. 100-055
SOVEREIGN SA050
VALEO 437851

Here is a photo of my uprated Alternator installation (Full write-up will follow one day)

Taz-Blitz's Alternator Upgrade
original Post here: http://www.talbotoc.com/post67118.html#p67118 )

Stirling Advanced Digital Alternator Regulator

I have been in communication with Stirling Power Products about using their "advanced digital alternator regulator" as the instructions for this state that the  standard alternator should produce between 13.5 and 14.5 volts (mine is regulated at 14.58v)

Stirling advised that my current voltage output was too high and would result in "destroying my batteries" (which has not occurred despite 6  years usage like this! ).  They recommended I use of their split-charge diodes which would induce a voltage drop of 0.8v (compare to the existing 100Amp heavy duty relay and wiring which has only a 0.01 volt drop). 

I would not use a split charge diode as research has shown that voltage drop is directly proportional to current flow, therefore whilst the volt drop to the leisure battery may indeed be 0.8v the main vehicle battery will not experience anything like this. In this scenario the advanced regulator will bring the voltage up to 14.8 at the discharged leisure battery by making the alternator work at 15.6v to compensate for the split charge diode, and the vehicle's main battery will receive almost all of this voltage (at a much lower current as it is not discharged).  The result would be severe boiling of the vehicle's primary battery.

If you do your research you will find this main battery over-voltage situation is well-documented, even (surprisingly) on Stirling's own website where they make the case for purchasing their latest and very expensive zero volt drop equipment!.

In conclusion: This alternator's output is already deliberately regulated to a high voltage to get a much higher charge current into the battery and should be very capable of rapidly charging a heavily discharge leisure battery provided adequate cabling is installed to minimise the voltage drop at high currents.  To ensure this I have removed the original 25amp fused split-charge wiring and installed 16sq mm (120Amp) cable, a 100A heavy duty relay, and two 80Amp fuses with the total cable length of less than 70cm from alternator to leisure battery.

2.5 DIESEL ENGINE VERSION  (for info)

- Note the different dimensions and bracket hole.
Not interchangeable with the Petrol version.

Electro-Mechanical Flasher Unit
(as Fitted to 1991 onwards 2.0 Petrol Model).
This version is fitted behind the Dashboard.
There is also a 4-Pin version which is usually fitted behind the glovebox

Search for Part number: OEF317

7mm Silicon "High Volt" OEF317 typically £20 delivered free on Amazon (search for "OEF317" )

Heater Resistor Packs / Fan Motor Speed Control

(with Thermal Cut out) Post 91 models

The Resistor Pack is located on the Right-hand side of the heater unit under the dashboard and is held in place by 3 screws. It can easily be removed. The resistor pack has 4 connectors, 3 out and 1 in ( or the other way round depending on how you view it seeing as it is on the Earth side )

The 3 resistors (either separate coils or in the green block as shown below)  are added in series depending on which of the 3 outputs(/Inputs) you have selected via the fan switch. But ALL flow though the thermal fuse connected to the single input (/output). You can check the item on the RS components website (search for 184c) it is virtually identical for the green unit.

The rotary fan switch has 5 connectors: 1 is not connected (the OFF position). The one on the far side is connected directly to Earch by passing the resistor block for Full(!) power. So.. the thermal fuse (small thin silver cylindrical thingy in photos) is in play only when the resistor pack is being utilised.

A blown resistor pack will manifest itself as the Fan only operating on full power (as opposed to a blown fuse when the fan won't work at all). The coiled resistor packs usually fail due to an accumulation of debris building up on the coils causing them to short out and overheat. The actual "blowing" of the resistor pack may be accompanied by smoke and the acrid smell of burning electrics coming from the heater vents in the dashboard which is rather alarming when it occurs.

Resetting the Resisistor Pack
With thanks to "Bruce" on the Preloved forum

If you put the resistor pack in your freezer (in a plastic bag to keep the moisture out) you may find that it will re-set the thermal fuse.
I have tried this myself with the exposed coil version (shown above Left) and it worked.   .

7 - Pin, Bosch or 6 - Pin Ducellier (both interchangeable)

PART NUMBERS.

ALFA. 116 97 65(6) 079 00/01, BOSCH 0227010002/008/018. CITROEN 91 504 912 (944)80/ 7910035100. LUCAS DAB201, CI, XEI5, INTERMOTOR 15010, PEUGEOT 5945.02/03/25/31/33/39/45/48.  5927.90. ROVER BAU5332.

Talbot Express Part number (Peugeot) is 5945.48 costing £85 in Jan 2009

MotorFactor Parts: (should cost approx £20)
Intermotor Part Number 15010
Hella Part Number: 5DA 006 623-001